For this level 4 class, you probably have most of the supplies you’ll need since you’ve got some experience under your belt before taking this course!
Given that people learn in different ways, Each lesson will contain photos with closeups and discussion of different sections of the finished painting. I recommend reading those before watching the video, which will be later in the lesson, and hopefully having the end result in mind, you can watch for how that section was created. Note particular areas you want to see, and have pencil and paper handy to note the timestamps when each layer happened so you can go back to review it.
Know that YOUR painting need not be exactly like the demo painting. Each of us is unique, and we each have our own approach, color selection, brush strokes – and add in water and paper and you have a guarantee that we’ll all have paintings that work out differently!
PRACTICE TIP: Demonstrations are each done on quarter sheets – that’s a quarter of a 22″ x 30″ sheet, meaning 11″ x 15″. While you might want to practice on smaller paper, small paintings require very different techniques – and brushes – than do larger pieces. (My apologies to those for whom a 22″ x 30″ is a normal size!) If you want to practice techniques without using an 11″ x 15″ sheet, divide the sheet into thirds using tape (3 vertical skinny paintings), and try a sky in each one, then a portion of a tree in each at the scale they would each be painted on an actual quarter sheet.. That might allow for trying different brushes and colors at scale while preserving paper. I do that on the backs of failed paintings – a great way to learn from every square inch of a sheet of paper!
I retain the copyright to the content you are learning in class. That means…
However…I love to see students making strides and taking this teaching and personalizing it with your own skills.
At the bottom of each lesson you’ll see some ways to share your homework and ask questions, so that’ll be handy for you.
Good paper is important! I forgot to include it in the preclass video, but that doesn’t mean it’s not a priority. Oops 🙂
Choosing to work on student grade papers will hamper your results, create funky edges, and cause more blooms than a good high quality cold press or rough watercolor paper. It should be 100% cotton, sometimes called “rag” – if a paper doesn’t list that it’s made with cotton, avoid it. A few brands I’ve found just exclaim what great papers they are but won’t say what’s in it. That doesn’t mean painting on them is always bad – but for this class i encourage choosing Arches or Saunders Waterford.
Paper color is a personal preference; Arches has natural or bright white, and Saunders Waterford has a High White; many watercolor papers are a little more cream than white, but that’s normal. (Sometimes a whiter paper will even cost more.)
For demos in this course Saunders Waterford High White was used to keep the seafoam as white as possible.
Cold press vs rough? Again, personal choice. I get way better drybrush effects and beautiful edges on rough, but it can be challenging for small details. (Thus helping avoid getting lost in unnecessary detail!) Most people use cold press. (I don’t recommend hot press at all for this course.)
Daniel Smith Watercolors are used in this class, but you can certainly use other artist quality paints. Check the photo below and swatch your colors to see if you have something close.
It’s always a good day to treat yourself to a new brush. The needle brush is used extensively in this course, I highly recommend it.
Artventure is an active art community of thousands of artists that I run on Mighty Networks via an app or the web. You’ll be right in my pocket for quick feedback and answers to questions and bonus zoom calls! Free to join.
Post wherever you like to share, and tag @sandyallnock – I love to see your work! Posting lets your friends know which class you’re taking. They might enjoy learning as well!
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